FIENDFRIDAY: DEREK LAM S2010

STARS, STRIPES, AND PRINTS OH MY!

A first look at Derek Lam's Spring 2010 collection doesn't lend itself to a united vision, but a second look reveals a large body comprised of several small collections with impeccable details and subtle links between looks in the uses of stripes, stars, and floral prints. While it may not be a blatant marriage of cohesion, Lam nonetheless presents a luminous collection of hits.

PHOTO CREDITS: Derek Lam from style.com.

FIENDTHURSDAY: THE MODERN DIVIDE

CLASSIC NEUTRALS

In response to the opulence and flashy 80s-inspired looks that have been so prominent the past couple seasons, a movement of simplicity and refinement has begun to rise and will be poking its head high above the ground come Spring 2010.

Even Marc Jacobs, who cemented the 80s trend's permeation with his Fall 2009 collection, is moving in a different direction come Spring. The tension between the two aesthetic camps is symbolic of our current cultural dilemma: in the face of economic strife, do we move into a more somber, subtle place in minimalist looks or come out swinging in studded boots and (updated) shoulder pads?

Houses like Chloe, Celine, and Tod's are reliable for easy breezy minimal style with fine details. When in doubt, s0me designers have decided to straddle the middle by working within a nuetral palette of black and white, a classic combination that seems to recur season to season as a safe option with innovative potential if technique and styling are used to full effect.
PHOTO CREDITS: Marchesa (top), Marc Jacobs (bottom left), Karl Lagerfeld (bottom right), and Givenchy (center left) from style.com.

FIENDWEDNESDAY: THE WAIT IS OVER

BELLE DU CELINE

Philomaniacs (or Pheobe Philo fans) were rewarded today with the first runway showing of Celine by Phoebe Philo. She did not disappoint. Philo sent out smart pieces with a slight military bent to them in a palette of functional neutrals. Here are some of the best looks. Click on thumbnails to view larger images.

PHOTO CREDITS: CELINE BY PHOEBE PHILO from style.com.

FIENDTUESDAY: SKY HIGH

THE HIGH RISE DRESS

Sadly, Olivier Theyskens is no longer with Nina Ricci, but his mark on fashion lives on in the high rise dresses he presented for Ricci's Fall 2008 collection. While sleeves on dresses are getting longer for Fall 2009, come Spring next year dress hemlines will be rising, but only in the front. Alber Elbaz for Lanvin [center]], John Galliano at Christion Dior [left], Marchesa [top], and Vivienne Westwood [right] all sent out variations on the high rise dress.
PHOTO CREDITS: Marchesa, Christian Dior, Lanvin, and Vivienne Westwood from style.com.

FIENDMONDAY: GREY SKIES

NEUTRAL STATEMENTS

Haider Ackerman infused his Spring 2010 collection with sudden bursts of color that were brilliantly rendered, but it's the abundance of grey that forecasts a larger, more neutral trend.
PHOTO CREDITS: Haider Ackermann from style.com.

FIENDFRIDAY: PHILO-MANIA

WELCOME TO CELINE

The fashion industry is abuzz with excitement over the return of Phoebe Philo, former designer for Chloe. Since Philo returned to the fold as Creative Director of Celine, her name has been on the tongues of fashionistas and in the pages of every fashion publication one can think of. Her debut 2010 Resort collection for her new boss is a triumph and a true expression of her covetable collection that stays true to her design principles of chic ease and wearability. Pictured are some highlights to celebrate. Click on the thumbnails to view larger images.













PHOTO CREDITS: Celine by Phoebe Philo from style.com.

FIENDTHURSDAY: NEWHOTNOW

NEWHOTNOW:

GARY GRAHAM

Equal parts vintage, down home, and modern, Gary Graham's Spring 2010 collection is what you would get if you married peasant sartorial sensibilities with a Manhattan aesthetic, and it works. Graham's collection blends trendy staples (hello again Boyfriend Jacket) with classic and oversized silhouettes in draped dresses and pants.

A CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist, Graham's career is ten years in the making but has recently seen overnight success. He just opened a new store in Tribeca and has begun garnering celebrity clientele.

PHOTO CREDITS: Gary Graham from style.com.