FIENDFRIDAY: HOODWINKED

BENEATH THE HOOD(S)

Designers' apparent new obsession with the head suggests a new interest in a womens' intellectualism. The addition of a hood to everything from jackets (expected) to dresses (surprising) shows up all over the runways from New York to Paris.

What is particularly alluring about this feature, aside from the tension found in pieces possessing a prim yet urban edge, is the message being communicated by the concealing detail. Are designers speaking to the modern woman's conflict of playing peek-a-boo with her intellect? The balancing act of being smart and sexual? Or are they alluding to the feminine wisdoms that can be lost and even concealed under a patriarchal societal structure?

Anne Boleyn anyone?

Maison Martin Margiela (top), Alexander Wang (left), Fendi (center), Sportmax right).


PHOTO CREDITS: Alexander Wang from and Sportmax from nymag.com, Maison Martin Margiela and Fendi from style.com.

FIENDTHURSDAY: RETRO INSPIRATION

PANTSUITS ALA HEPBURN

It is no coincidence that the premiere classic and minimalist designers of our time are sending out modern pantsuits for women that harken back to a bygone era; an era when the very thought of a woman in pants sent shock waves through society.

Donna Karan [left], Lanvin by Alber Elbaz [center], and Ralph Lauren [right] all send out suits that, had they been produced six decades ago, would have been staples in the wardrobe of Katherine Hepburn.

PHOTO CREDITS: Katherine Hepburn found here. Lanvin from nymag.com, Donna Karan, and Ralph Lauren from style.com.

FIENDWEDNESDAY: AUTUMN ROMANCE PART II

ROMANTIC CHARACTERS

Romance is the undercurrent of the Fall collections. Designers are offering pieces that are borderline costumes. These looks offer the consumer an opportunity to escape the modern crises and delightfully succumb to the fantasy of being someone else in another time.

Rodarte [bottom right], Anna Sui [bottom left], D and G [top left], and Diane Von Furstenberg [top left] all offer variations on this trend.















PHOTO CREDITS: Rodarte and D & G from style.com, Anna Sui and Diane Von Furstenberg from nymag.com.

FIENDTUESDAY: ROMANCING MISSONI

THE URBAN RENAISSANCE

The eccentric yet coordinated looks from Missoni's fall collection are indicative of an overarching trend of Romance that was seen throughout the runways. The dramatic separates and layers of the collection, including the sweeping scarves and dresses with a vintage appeal, are just as street ready as they are reminiscent of Renaissance-era paupers and jesters with a dash of the Arthurian priestess.














PHOTO CREDITS: Missoni from style.com and nymag.com

FIENDMONDAY: RECO-CHIC

BAG LADY CHIC

Perhaps we're taking this recession chic movement, (which I'd like to dub "Reco-Chic"), a little too literally. Maybe it's the dash of Dickensian pauperism that's coming back in vogue (more on that in a later post), but fashion is cycling towards an unassuming aesthetic that speaks volumes about how little people want to talk about money. Designers have created the Bag Lady Chic aesthetic for consumers to (literally) disappear into.

Take a page out of Charles Anaste [top left], who likes his bag lady with a Mary Poppins twist, or look to Missoni [top right] for maximum impact with ultra length and unceasing layers. John Galliano [bottom center] throws his hat into the mix with his Babooshka-eqsue rendering of the Fall 2009 trend.

Leave it to the rich to make looking poor a statement.

Bag Lady Look Signatures: Volume, Layers


PHOTO CREDITS: John Galliano, Charles Anaste, Missoni from style.com

FIENDFRIDAY: HEAD HIGH

FACE FORWARD

Designers are utilizing silhouettes, details, and accessories that bring the eye up, placing a new focus on the head and face. Whether it's through the use of a simple high collar, a cowell neck, or a scarf, these looks cast a new emphasis above the shoulders. Pollini [top right], Les Copains [bottom center], John Richmond [top left]
Photo Credits: Pollini from style.com, John Richmond, Les Copains from nymag.com

FIENDTHURSDAY: POP GOES THE GENIUS

PUTTING THE POP BACK INTO ART

In the wake of his death, the late Yves Saint Laurent's legacy is still seen each season. Fall 2009 reveals a trend in pop art-inspired accessories that are reminiscent of his 1966 collection, which was inspired by pop art and cubism (pictured top left). The trend found itself on everything from shoes at Dolce and Gabbana (top right) and Giorgio Armani (bottom right) to purses by Roger Vivier (bottom left).

Photo Credits: YSL from peppermintkisskiss.com, Dolce and Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, and Roger Vivier from style.com.